Little did I know, leaving Ohio 30 years ago could bring me full circle from what was call back then "Enduro" to the now more descriptive "Adventure riding". Now that the children have grown, I felt that my 20-year riding hiatus was long over due for a re-kindling. I started back with an 1800 Goldwing and after seeing one up close, fell in lust for a GS. Well, in October of 2004 I convinced myself (and Desert Wife) I needed one and now had a R1200GS parked in the garage beside my Honda.
After one weekend molestation of my new ride, I stopped at a local cruiser bars for a cold one before I made it home. A fellow sitting there with his feet propped up, lit up as I got off my Euro style ride in the midst of the sea of black and chrome and headed for the bar. "Nice 1200" I look in shock to think that someone knows the bike, let alone what the displacement is. "I have an 1150". Cool, I think, and starting shooting the shit with him. Seeing the BMW roundel on his vest then the red Honda wings I ask, "Is that you 1800?" pointing at the red Goldwing sitting in the lot. After admitting to that I told him I had one as well. After talking a little, I find that he is a transplanted Buckeye as well. The world is small.
Thinking that it is time to get some real dirt on this GS, I start planning a winter ride to West Texas. Browsing the GSpot forum I see a response to one of my posts from a fellow with the handle ThirdCoast that claims he met me a Cruisers (a little biker bar on 2004 south of Santa Fe). Remembering him, I ask if he was up for a trip to Big Bend the end of February. "Name the date" was the reply, so off we go.
Before we leave on the 18th, the group grows to 3 riders. Me on my 1200GS, ThirdCoast on his 1150GS and his friend, Ken, on his FJR1300. I meet ThirdCoast at Wata Burger in Alvin TX at 6:30 and we head out to meet up with Ken in Sealy by 8:00. 100 miles into the day we need to stop and discard some coffee. Heading back to the bikes, I don't know if Ken (far right) is trying to get his hands warm or rehearsing the next pattern like a Blue Angle pilot.
We ride on, find a little rain and get sandwiched in between some chrome and leather heading to the Gypsy Rally that is in Boerne that weekend. Boy is that going to be a mess in the rain.
After a coffee break and gas we head west on I10 and stop in Hunt TX for a petite but tasty lunch at Elaine's Table. We ride west on TX39 along the south fork of the upper Guadeloupe, south on 187 past Lost Maples SP then west on one of the Three Sisters, FM337. We make it to Leaky by around 3:30, grab some rooms at the Frio Canyon Lodge then head back over 337 to look at some of Allan Johncock’s beautifully restored bikes at the Lone Star Motorcycle Museum in Vanderpool.
This Black Shadow is headed to Mexico this month for a Vintage Ride Rally.
Allan does race some of these bikes.
Ken finds that the lady behind the counter rides a 650GS and a RT and also in a previous life has rafted many of the wild rivers he has. Day's end finds us back in Leaky for a good meal and a nice buzz from Crown on the rocks.
DAY2:
I wake around 05:00 to the hissing sound of tires rolling across wet pavement outside my room. Stick my head out the door, yep, it's raining. Well, that's part of riding, you're gonna get wet sometime or another. After the rest on the crew gets out and about we start looking around to see if we can forage some grub. Our search leads to the only place in Leaky TX open for breakfast, which is a BBQ joint that made me a kick-ass omelet. I guess the other guys liked theirs, didn't see much left on their plates.
Soon we are gassed-up suited-up and are carving a path through the fog and light rain headed up another of the sisters legs, Ranch Road 336. Shame it was so foggy, there is some nice scenery on that twisty road. We did get to see quite a few deer, including some white ones.
Hitting TX41 we head west to Rocksprings, a short jog west on US377 until we turn south onto Ranch Road 674 headed to Brackettville. This is another fine twisty piece of tarmac and by the time we get to Brackettville, the rain has let up and the mud on the road turns to dust by the time we get to US90.
Time to onload some petrol, offload some coffee and tank up with a fresh hot brew. Now it's time for some boring straight-line miles. Ken takes the lead and as I watch my GPS I keep wondering when the Gendarme is going to pop up for 85 in a 70. We slip undetected through Del Rio, cross Lake Amistad (which I was glad to see up to level) and then take a google stop at the Pecos River Bridge.
Starting to get a little hungry we burn some more miles and take a lunch stop in Sanderson. Sitting at the Stage Stop we see a couple GSs heading east. As we sit down to eat, a HD bagger goes by headed west and lets up sample the dBs emanating from the rear of his ride as he waved.
We gas-up, saddle-up and point em west. A few miles down the road we catch the HD and have to pass him. Ken later laughs about how him gray beard blowing up in his face look like he had a badger sitting on his face. Hell, if it weren't for my chin-bar, the same could have been said about me. He falls in behind us and drafts us all the way to Marathon where we stop to look up Ken's friend who hasn't got there yet. After a short stop to peel some layers we are soon on our way to Alpine to stay for the night.
We find a motel that has a few bikes parked at the office and pull in. We get to talking to them and take a couple shots of Rienars cherry R90S.
He is here on loan as an Airforce security guard over in Alamogordo NM and riding with some retired gents from El Paso, two on FJR1300s and one on an RC51. We talk and have a few with these riders before turning for the night
DAY3:
As usual, up before dawn and start scrounging up some coffee. Today's plans are ThirdCoast and I are heading for the dirt and Ken is going back to Marathon and hang with his riding bud. Packed up we say our goodbye and TC and head west to Marfa for gas and grub. Sky is clear blue, temp is crisp, sun is at our backs and wind in our face,,, shit, it don't get any better that this.
We stop at the Marfa Lights viewing platform for a photo opp.
In Marfa we find that we have to go to all four corners of the town to find the only place to have breakfast. A little hole in the wall called KT's Kafe. It was a good stop.
Soon we are headed south on US67 looking for our turn off onto Ranch Road 169. We ride the nice peaceful portion of 169 until it turns to dirt. Now we're talkin'. Road was well maintained with lots of loose stuff and some moderate sand in the low water crossings. One had some water in it and TC tried to bail it out. Hell, it just filled up again don't ya know.
After stopping to water a cactus, TC catches me catching up.
We continue on south and without a map make all the right turns and end up on Ranch Road 170. The wet winter has produced some nice color in the desert early. Remember yanks, this is February.
A dusty GS is a happy GS.
For anyone that has not ridden this road, it was voted the #1 road in Texas by Ride Texas magazine follow by #2 FM337.
I ride the 12 onto some tailing piles and play in the loose stuff before we hop on 170 and head east towards the park. The GS feels a little funny to me, which I attribute to just coming off gravel. I start noticing a sight tuck in right-handers and the first thing crossing my mind was the final drive. Gun shy I guess. I give the bars a little wiggle at speed and feel a slight walk. Ok, I give the bars a good whack and then it shows up. The only thing missing was Chubby Checkers singing the Twist. (Sorry 30 somethings, I don't have one for you). I find a level place to pull off and inspect the rear. FD looks good; I step on the rim and see the tire is damn near flat. I put it on the center stand and while I'm getting the tire repair kit out TC runs the tire and finds a small whole. I ream that sucker, goop up a rope plug and stuff it in.
While we are waiting for the plug to set, we hear a boxer coming down the road and then; putter, putter, putter, there goes Rienar followed by his elderly riding buddies headed west. God bless em¦
By now it is getting pretty hot, high 80s, so we start thinking about a cold one in Lahitas and hit the road. We stop to take some shots.
I snap a few from the saddle.
This quaint little piece of scenery is a movie set from Streets of Laredo with James Garner.
In Lahitias, we hit the mercantile and soak up a couple cold brews and eat a couple slices of Pepper Jack I had talked the storekeep out of.
After a short trip to Terlingua, we check into the Big Bend Motor Lodge, clean up and head to the Basin Lodge for supper. Nice day!!!
Sunset on Mexico:
DAY4:
Wake before dawn, this time there is coffee in the room. I pack up the GS in the morning moonlight while listening to the coyotes serenade me.
"Sip",,, life is good.
After gas and breakfast (which I am sure will give me gas) we head into the park and a trip down Old Maverick Road. It is dry with a few ruts and some loose stuff but fun to ride.
We get to Santa Elena canyon and snap a few shots.
Trelingua Creek.
We have a long day ahead to get to Sonora but still stop to play around on River Road West.
After gassing up at Panther Junction, TC and I swap mounts and head out of the park. After giving the 12 back to me outside the park he said, "Why did you make me ride that thing?" Not sure what he meant.
We burn the asphalt and make it to Sanderson by noon so stop at the Stage Stop for another burger. One thing about these parts, not much variety but what is there is damn good. A fellow in the Stage Stop informed us the road along the Devil's River has low water crossings the were under water. We look at each other and think, cool, river crossings. Sure enough when we get to Comstock and turn north on TX163 we see a sign !ROAD CLOSED 40 MILES AHEAD!
TC sees a woman standing in her yard and asks if closed really meant closed. She told us that only when they get a lot of rain is it really closed. We decided to try it and were glad we did. I have never been on this road and it was a pleasant little desert twisty that snaked in and out of Diablo Canyon and crossed the river several times. Here is a sample.
TC making waves:
You can see by the water line, this wouldn't be possible a day or so ago.
By the time we get to Sonora, our asses are dragin' so we find a motel, supper and some beer to wash the day down.
DAY5:
Again, before dawn and start scrounging up coffee. Get packed, eat breakfast and point em toward the house. This day promises to be a non-event super-slab ass burner. And it was just that. Last gas stop before home, TC points at my bike and tells me I might get arrested for removing something fom a national park. Turns out this little fellow hitched a ride and was on there for at least 800 miles. The only rocks I remember like that were the tailing piles I rode on near Presidio.
He now lives in Desert Wife's flowerbed.
All in all, this was another great trip, with a couple great guys on great machines. The only complaint I have is the amount of time we had didn't leave much time for dirt. Till I can do it again.
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